Feeding "Outside the Bag"

Raw Feeding
Raw feeding is about feeding a dog as close to Nature's model as possible.  While my dogs don't have the freedom to take down a deer or chase rabbits, I try to feed them a complete diet of meat, edible bones and organ meats to mimic the nutritional benefits they'd derive from having a whole carcass tossed in the yard for their dining pleasure (wouldn't the neighbors just LOVE that?).  We feed what we lovingly call "Franken-prey" an animal assembled with the parts available to us.  It's a one of a kind animal (meaning we don't always get the same parts twice) but picture...the head of a rabbit, the neck of a lamb, the heart of a buffalo, the hindquarter of a chicken, the liver of a pig and the tail of a salmon....and you're getting the image. 

Fruits and Vegetables
While my dogs do get a limited amount of fruits and vegetables, as treats (or stolen off of the counter), they are not a significant portion of their diet.  Dogs lack the enzymes necessary to break down the cellulose in vegetable matter to obtain nutritional benefit from the fruits and vegetables and after spending hours in the USDA food databases, I've learned that all of the vitamins, minerals, amino acids and other nutrients are available in the various meats and organs they're fed. 

Yes, a wolf in the wild may eat seasonal grasses and berries, but they'll pass through undigested, just as grass and carrots are visible in the yard when scooping time comes around.  And, contrary to myth, wolves do not eat the stomach contents of large prey (see the work of L. David Mech to read about the observed feeding habits of wolves).  

Starting Made Easy
The easiest way to start is with a single protein source.  I generally start with chicken quarters because a) they're cheap and easy to obtain and b) they contain a significant amount of meat (although not ideal) and are easily digested by most dogs.  The other bonus to chicken quarters is that there are small bits of organ in the spine region, so without making a big to-do of it, you're starting them with some organ nutrition as well.  If you have excessively soft stools after a day or two of chicken quarter meals, consider taking off a good portion of the skin and fat while your dog adjusts to the new way of eating.   If they continue, consider that you may be feeding too much food at one meal, a common reason for soft stools. 

After a week or so of chicken quarters, if the stools are normal and the dog is doing well, consider adding another protein.  Pork is another easily obtainable meat, with soft, edible bones.  Try to stay away from chops and other sawn bones, as the edges are sharp and pointy.  As you get to know your dogs and how they eat, you may have polite eaters that will daintily nibble on these bones.  Until you know you have one of these misfits <grin> avoid the sharp, artificial edges. 

If the transition to chicken was "rough" then think about adding just a couple ounces of the new meat to the chicken meal.  Be flexible and find what works for your dog when it comes to adding new stuff.  If you've got a goat with a cast-iron stomach, you can just drop the new meat in the rotation and go your merry way.  And, remember, soft stools aren't the end of the world....they simply mean that you need to do some tweaking and adjusting. 

Adding Organ Meat
You can start adding organ meats in as early as you like.  As I mentioned above, chicken quarters generally have some small pieces of organs on them.  Start easy with the organs.  There's nothing that will produce cannon-butt faster than too much liver at once.  Even now, after feeding raw for 3 years, liver is given out in card deck sized pieces a few times a week.  Far better to spread it over multiple meals than to clean it up after a liver-gorge-fest! 

Liver makes up roughly 50% of the organs I feed because, when various animals are butchered and weighed out, it makes up roughly 50% of the organs in the animal (see how following Nature's packaging makes it easy?) Any kind of liver works.  If your dog has expressed significant distaste for one kind of liver, try another.  Beef, buffalo, lamb, pork, chicken, turkey....they're all fair game. 

Kidney is another frequently fed organ.  Again, my preference is to feed a fist sized piece, not a whole kidney although I know many raw feeders who do.  Other organs I feed when I can get them.  Heart serves as a nutrient dense muscle meat, although it's an organ in the body.  It's something I can feed as an entire meal and is an easy way to add more meat to a diet that may be too high in bone.

Determining How Much To Feed
For medium sized dogs, a general rule of thumb is 2%-3% of their ideal body weight.  Siberian Huskies, I've found, need less than that.  But start at 2% if your dog is a little pudgy and watch them.  Over time, you'll determine the right amount to feed your dog to keep them at a good weight.  Even after 3 years, I still weigh meals simply to avoid over feeding.  Others have progressed to being more casual, alternating larger and smaller portions, or going to a gorge/fast method.  Do what works best for you and your dogs.  There's no "rule book" or test at the end of raw feeding. 

Feeding Puppies
Feeding puppies is just as easy as feeding large dogs, in fact, when making the initial switch, even easier because anything that fits in their mouth is fair game to eat.  I start puppies off at 2%-3% of their expected adult body weight.  Basically, they get the same amount as the big dogs, but spread over two or three meals (remember, too much food in one sitting will almost guarantee a round of cannon-butt.)  You may need to score through or remove skin in the beginning.  I generally feed a bone/meat grind (ground at home) for the AM meal when I need to get to work and a meaty, edible bone meal in the evening when there's time for them to work through it.  Just as with adults, not every meal has to contain edible bone. 

When to Start
If you're weaning a litter, then start with a ground mix mixed with milk for their mush at 3 1/2 weeks (or whenever you start that process).  If you're bringing home a puppy, start with their first meal at home.  . 

Feeding a Balanced Diet
"Balance over time" is a phrase you'll hear often.  My idea of balance over time is to load the freezers once a month with a good variety of meat (80%), edible bone (10%) and organ meat (10%) and, when the freezer is empty, I know they've gotten a variety or "balance" over time.  It doesn't take a degree in nutrition to feed yourself or your children, it shouldn't take one to feed your dog.  It simply takes an understanding of what is necessary and some shopping skill. 

Supplements
A well constructed diet provides the nutrients the average dog needs.  Health problems may require additional supplementation on a case by case basis.  One area, however, that generally needs supplementation is the Omega 3 essential fatty acids.  Unless you're able to feed pasture raised meats, it's likely that the meat is low in O3 EFAs.  Even salmon, once a great source of O3, is generally lacking as the farm raised salmon take over the market.  O3 EFAs are easily added to the diet with fish oil.  Fish oil capsules are easily obtainable and if your dog won't eat them as a treat, poke them with a pin and squirt the oil over their meal.  Look for a fish oil capsule that has as few additives (no SOY) as possible.  

Doggie Dining Rooms
At Kaos, we feed the dogs in crates.  It keeps them separate so the pigs don't steal food and I can see who's eating and who isn't.  It also gives me an easy clean up when needed.  Generally, a smelly meal (think mackeral) will earn the crates a spritzing with white vinegar and wiped out to remove the smell.  Other than that, Frosty and Cheyenne do a great job of licking the crates clean.  Others have "feed towels" where they've trained their dogs to eat on a towel that can go in the wash.  Whatever works for you is the best place to feed your dog. 

Sources for Food
Watching grocery store ads is one of the best ways to find things for your dog to eat.  Talk to your meat guy and find out what he can order by the case.  Look for restaurant suppliers who will order things by the case for you.  If you're really lucky, you'll have something like www.socalbarf.com in your area.  Find out where the local hunters have their kills processed.  When you do buy by the case, head over to Home Depot and get a couple of small concrete mixing tubs to thaw the meat in and then refreeze it in ziplock bags.  I used to weigh and freeze in meal sized portions.  Now I just bag it and either feed it until it's gone or toss the leftovers back in the freezer.  Dogs don't care about freezer burn and the changes in texture or taste that bother people. 

It really is just that easy.  I recommend you join the rawfeeding group.  You'll get tons of useful information, experienced raw feeders to answer questions and the camaraderie of other people who "feed outside the bag."  It is a high volume mailing list.  If it's overwhelming, consider setting your mail preferences to "no mail" and read from the web or getting the list mail in digest form.

If you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me.  If I can't answer them, I'll find someone who can.  Back on the Health page, you'll find links to numerous raw feeding sites with additional information.